Weekend Guide to Dubrovnik, Croatia

After spending a few months in mild, gray London, we decided it was time to get out and enjoy some sun. Being huge Game of Throne nerds, Dubrovnik was an obvious choice for our next getaway destination. We didn’t know much about Dubrovnik before visiting, other than that it was situated along the Dalmatian Coast, and known as the “Jewel of the Adriatic” for it’s beautifully preserved Old Town (an UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the crystal blue waters surrounding it. Read more about our visit and check out this weekend guide to Dubrovnik.

Related Post: Chasing Waterfalls in Plitvice Lakes, Croatia

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But first, a history lesson…

The city is so much more than that it’s beautiful views though – it’s worth learning a bit about Dubrovnik’s tumultuous history which makes it so unique. At it’s peak, Dubrovnik was a powerful, independent republic (one that rivaled Venice) with allegiance to the Ottoman Empire in the 15th and 16th centuries. However, a major earthquake and several new trade routes weakened the republic, which consequently led to Napoleon’s conquest of the city in the 1800s. After Napoleon’s campaign fell apart, the country became part of the Habsburg Empire.

Afterwards, Dubrovnik suffered again during the break-up of Yugoslavia when the Greater Serb aggression destroyed the majority of the city with artillery. Eventually, the Serb army withdrew and Dubrovnik began it’s restoration process in 1992. Even today, despite the people’s suffering and loss of state power, there are still signs scattered throughout the city claiming “Libertas” e.g. Latin for liberty. And, the people of Dubrovnik tend to identify more with the city itself, than with Croatia – that’s because Dubrovnik is separated from most of Croatia by a 3-mile stretch that is Bosnia.

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Day 1 – Pile Gate and Old Town

We took a quick flight from London Gatwick and arrived in Dubrovnik on an early Saturday morning. From there, we took the main airport bus to the city center, which conveniently dropped us off in front of the Pile Gate. Tickets for the bus can be bought at airport arrivals – it’s best to buy a return ticket in advance (around 70 Kuna), the return can be used at anytime. Our AirBnB (which comes highly recommended, see pic below) was located right around the corner of the square, central but still tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding streets.

TIP: The drive from the airport to Old Town is roughly 30-minutes, but it’s a magnificent one. If you can, try to sit on the left side of the bus. It’ll offer you the most spectacular views of the coastline.

We first visited Pile Gate, the main gate into Dubrovnik’s Old Town (the filming location for several Game of Thrones scenes portraying the people of King’s Landing or the streets of Flea Bottom). From there, we continued onto the main street (also known as Strada) – with it’s cream-colored marble tiles paving the way to the massive cathedral at the end of the path, it may just well be one of the most beautiful streets in the world. Several labyrinth-like side streets branch out from Strada, this is where you’ll find a number of quaint cafes and restaurants.

We turned down one of the side streets and enjoyed a wonderful lunch at Barba, a casual eatery featuring Croatia ‘street food’. Of course, my husband and I had to order the Barba platter which ended up being a massive fried seafood platter that could have fed a whole family of 4 (with more to spare). No regrets.

We spent the rest of the day meandering around Old Town, getting lost in it’s maze and roaming the various shops. Visit-worthy structures include the Dubrovnik Cathedral, the Rector’s Palace, and the Sponza Palace.

Dinner was at a spectacular restaurant with a cheesy name, the “Taj Mahal“. You may be skeptical at hearing the name (it sounds like it might be an Indian restaurant in the middle of Dubrovnik), but it actually features traditional Bosnian cuisine and is a well-kept secret of many locals. The restaurant was actually recommended to us by our AirBnB host and we we were so glad we took their recommendation. It’s a very small place with only a few tables, so make sure to make reservations before you go.

The food was immensely flavorful and tasted as if it had been prepared with great love and care. Kevin ordered the specialty (rolled veal and turkey in dough with mushrooms and cheese), and I ordered the shish cevap (veal simmered with vegetables). We got tipsy on Damatian wine and stumbled back to our AirBnB with full bellies.

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Day 2 – City Walls and Lokrum Island

Dubrovnik is best known for it’s city walls, which encircle the Old Town and can be easily-walked. We kicked off Day 2 by walking the City Walls early in the morning, partly to avoid the heat of the sun but mostly to avoid the crowds. The walk was a splendid one, with unbeatable towering views of the city below and the surrounding Adriatic Sea. It took us around 2 hours to walk the full length of the City Walls, and that included a pit-stop at the mid-way point to enjoy the views with a strong coffee in hand.

TIP: We were SO glad we visited the City Walls early. Towards the end of our walk, the walls started to become overrun with tourist groups and we had to maneuver our way through a sea of selfie sticks.

Walking the City Wall will get you views like this…

You can also channel your inner Khaleesi like this…

After walking the wall, we took a 10-minute ferry to the island of Lokrum. Lokrum Island is a popular short getaway from Dubrovnik – offering respite from the tourist crowds and pleasant walks through lush greenery. It’s also known for the several peacocks and wild rabbits that roam the island freely. Kevin and I both freaked out (in a good way) when we found ourselves face-to-face with a vibrantly-colored male peacock, as soon as we got off the ferry.

Before exploring the island, we treated ourselves to a bright and beautiful lunch at a cafe right near the ferry port.

Must-visit sites on Lokrum Island include: the Dead Sea (a small salt-water lake, perfect for sun bathing), the Benedictine Monastery complex (also where several Game of Thrones Quarth scenes were filmed), and the rocky beaches.

TIP: The ferry to-and-back from Lokrum leaves every half hour. The last ferry leaves around 5:30/5:45pm. The later ferries back to Dubrovnik can get quite crowded, as everyone wants to get back to the city.

After Lokrum, we took the Dubrovnik Cable Car up the mountain to get a birds-eye view of the city. Instead of hanging out with the crowds near the patio balconies, we took a winding rocky path behind the building to get what we considered, the truly BEST views of Dubrovnik. It was here where we sat for an hour, enjoying a blissful and romantic sunset.

Afterwards, instead of taking the Cable Car back down to the city, we took a 1.5-mile walk to the neighboring village of Bosanka to enjoy authentic Dalmatian cuisine at Konoba Dubrava. Bosanka is a tiny village, historically known for being a resting point for caravans traveling between Bosnia and Dubrovnik. Because of it’s location, the village suffered greatly when it was used for defense purposes during the Russian-Montenegro attack on Dubrovnik in 1806, and then later during the Croatian Homeland war in 1991.

Our dinner at Konoba Dubrava was probably the highlight of our trip – the restaurant’s traditional decor and family-like atmosphere made us feel like we had stumbled back in time, into someone’s home. We found ourselves being the only tourists in the restaurant, seated between two local families hosting a birthday celebration. The celebration was for the grandmother of one of the families, and she seemed utterly drunk with happiness (and perhaps, grappa). A local band was playing Croatian folk music, and the entire group sang along.

TIP: We ordered Lamb and Veal under the Bell, a traditional Dalmatian dish that takes several hours to prepare. If you want to try this dish, you have to call the restaurant in advance. Make sure to order the donuts with cream cheese. It was absolutely delicious!

It may have been the sun-daze, or it may have been pure exhaustion from exploring all day – but we both got a bit emotional in the restaurant as we took in the delicious food and the intimate scene playing around us. Or, perhaps it was because the celebration reminded us of both of our own grandparents, who were similarly proud of their own cultural heritage. Whatever it was, we were so glad we made the trek to Konoba Dubrava, as it was the perfect ending to our visit to Dubrovnik. We hope one day, we get the chance to make it back.

Want more details or need help planning a visit to Dubrovnik? Sign-up for my e-mail list or shoot me a comment/question below!

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