Highlights of Japan Part 1: Tokyo

Length: 7 Days | Budget: $$$

Tokyo is like a blaring soundtrack from a science fiction movie – between the neon streaks of taxis, the ever-taller building structures, and the crowds of people rushing on and off trains….it’s easy to feel disoriented by the sheer size and scale of the city. At the same time, it’s impossible not to feel completely mesmerized by the blinking city lights and the adrenaline and movement surrounding you. There’s a reason it’s one of the most-visited cities in the world – and if it wasn’t already on your bucket list to visit…then I hope it gets added after you’re done reading this! Seriously. Go!

Before you visit – purchase a JR Pass, which gives you unlimited access to the Japan Rail Network (you can only buy it outside of Japan). A 7-day pass costs ~$200, but you’ll use it so much that it will be worth the price. If you’re arriving in the Narita International Airport, the simplest way to get to Tokyo is by taking the Narita Express (which is covered by the JR Pass).  The trip should take 1.5 hours.

TIP: I would recommend staying in the Shinjuku or Shibuya districts while visiting Tokyo. We stayed at a lovely AirBnB in Shinjuku and loved how accessible and conveniently located it was!

Day 1: Tsukiji + Ginza + Harajuku

We started our first day in Tokyo by visiting the Tsukiji Fish Market (take the subway from Shinjuku to Tsukijishijo Station on the Oedo Line). There’s no better way to kick-off a trip to Japan by having a fresh sushi breakfast at one of the largest fish markets in the world. Sushi Dai is the most famous sushi spot in the market, but you’ll have to wait in line for 2-3 hours to get in. If you don’t have hours to spare, and still want quality sushi…then follow in our footsteps and check out a local favorite, Sushi Bun.

Founded more than 150 years ago, Sushi Bun is known to be one of the oldest sushi restaurants in the world. Enter the well-worn sliding wooden doors and you’ll find yourself in a classic hole-in-the-wall where you’ll eat sushi rubbing elbows with your neighbors. We ordered a classic sushi set which was served a few pieces at a time. The sushi was fresh, the experience enlightening, and we left with our bellies full. Sadly, photography was not allowed so I can’t share any beautiful pictures of our meal.

TIP: Go to Tsukiji Market as early as possible. The market opens at 5:30am. We thought we would be able to beat the crowds by going to the market at 7:30am…turns out, we were one of the late-goers and still had to wait-in-line for 30 minutes for breakfast! Also, wear closed-toe shoes if you don’t want ice and fish guts between your toes (but seriously).

A short walk away from Tsukiji Market are the Hama Rikyu Gardens, which offer a safe haven from the crowds of Tsukiji. Tickets are only $2/person – worth it for a lovely stroll and beautiful views. Then, head over to Ginza for some shopping in the glitzy fashion district of Tokyo. Other major tourist attractions within walking distance include: the Imperial Palace (current residence of the Japanese Imperial family) and Yasukuni Shrine (a controversial shrine dedicated to World War II soldiers who died during the war).

After Yasukuni Shrine, take the JR Chuo/Sobu Local Service Line to Yoyogi Station (9 minutes). From there, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Meiji Jingu Shrine. The Meiji Jingu shrine is dedicated to the Emperor Meiji, who is known as the first emperor of modern Japan. During the Meiji period, Japan westernized itself to join the list of one of the world’s major superpowers.

TIP: If you visit Meiji Jingu Shrine on a weekend, you might be able to see a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony take place.

Next, visit the Harajuku area (only a ten-minute walk from the Meiji Jingu Shrine). Walk along Omotesando, the main avenue of Harajuku, to check out all the cool shops (Kiddy Land is a must!) and then make your way to the alley of Takeshita Dori. Takeshita Dori was exactly what I imagined Harajuku to look like – a crowded street lined with kawaii clothing shops, crepe stands, and themed cafes. We shared a massive crepe from the Angel Hearts stand before grabbing a coffee pick-me-up at the Pompompurin Character Cafe. Kevin was super embarrassed about being there and I was over-the-moon at how adorable the drinks were.

After Harajuku, head back to Shinjuku to enjoy some entertainment at the Robot Restaurant.  Imagine packing ALL of the lights of the Las Vegas Strip into a single room….then add some loud music, video screens, mirrors, globe lights, dancing bikini-clad women, fighting robots, and fireworks. It’s a show. It’s a party. It’s a spectacle that left my jaw hanging. Were we glad we went? Sure, it made for an interesting experience. But it was expensive, a major tourist trap, and an over-exaggerated representation of Japanese pop culture that made me feel slightly uncomfortable.

After the almost-jarring experience at Robot Restaurant, we enjoyed ‘fourth-meal’ at Ichiran Ramen. Not an exaggeration….Ichiran was the best ramen that I have ever had in my entire life (others agree…check out this Forbes article here). In fact, we loved it so much that we tried multiple times during our trip to go again, but each time, the line was around the corner and the wait too long! Had we not gone during ‘off-hours’ (meaning, midnight), I’m not sure we would have had the chance to eat there!

Ichiran focuses on traditional pork tonkatsu ramen and the broth is INCREDIBLE – you can customize how flavorful your broth is, how much garlic you want to add, how firm of noodles you want, spice-level, and toppings. The dining experience is unique – you order your food at a vending machine and eat in individual stalls (slide your order ticket through a window and your meal gets passed back to you). Traveling in a group? No worries…the stalls have partitions that can be removed if you want to talk to your neighbor. Whatever you do, don’t miss Ichiran….I’m still dreaming of that ramen.

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Day 2: Asakusa + Akibahara + Ueno + Shibuya

Day 2 starts with a 30-minute subway ride to Asakusa Station (JR Chuo Line Rapid Service to Kanda, then transfer to Tokyo Metro for Asakusa). If you can, try to avoid traveling during the morning rush hour. We made this mistake and experienced the unpleasant feeling of being packed into a subway train like sardines. No joke – people were literally charging and jumping into the train even though we were already crammed in butt-to-butt. We laugh about it now, but at the time it was a truly uncomfortable experience.

While in Asakusa, wander through the maze of local shops and souvenir stands leading up to Senso-ji Temple (Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple). Be prepared for crowds of tourists in the area – we have battle scars from trying to get a solid selfie in front of the giant red paper lantern at the Thunder Gate of Senso-ji.

Afterwards, take the Ginza line from the Asakusa Station to the Ueno Station (15 min) to spend time at Ueno Park and the neighborhood of Ameyoko. Ameyoko is famous for streets filled with colorful vendors and outdoor stalls selling a variety of delicious food options. We spent time buying treats from the various shops to take home with us (Wasabi and Sake flavored Kit Kats anyone?) and then enjoyed some takoyaki (a popular Japanese snack made of wheat-flour, diced octopus, green onion, mayo, and bonito) at the popular takoyaki chain, Gindako.

From Ameyoko, walk to Akihabara to discover the geeky side of Tokyo. Akihabara is a gamer or anime-lover’s dream…filled with rows of electronics retailers, manga shops, card and figure trading establishments, and maid cafes (yes, cafes where girls dress up as, and act like maids). When we were there, we roamed around the multiple levels of Taito Shop and even tried our hand at winning a plush toy from one of the games (we failed).

Next, head to Shibuya where you’ll discover the Shibuya Crossing (a.k.a the busiest intersection in the world). Read any blog or guide and they’ll tell you to go to the Starbucks across from the Shibuya train station to get the best view of the intersection. You can try your hand at taking a picture while walking the crossing (we did), but you may get dirty looks or smacked in the face with a selfie stick.

After exploring the streets of Shibuya, grab a sushi dinner at Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka. It’s similar to train sushi restaurants you might find in the U.S., except that you order your food on tablets, and your sushi comes whizzing out on 3 different layers of conveyor belts. The sushi is fresh and reasonably priced…and it’s embarrassing how much fun we had browsing the menu and placing our orders on tablets!

After dinner, wander around Nonbei Yokocho (also known as Drunkard’s Alley or Piss Alley) where you’ll find rows of tiny bars – some so small that they only fit a few people at a time.  Walking through Nonbei Yokocho felt like we were traveling back-in-time…like a remnant of old pre-war Tokyo had somehow gotten stuck between the bustling streets of modern Shibuya. I couldn’t help but think that we had wandered into some hidden black market. Despite this – it’s worth checking out and grabbing a drink (or two) at one of the bars.

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Day 3: Day trip to Hakone from Tokyo

Take a break from the city and catch some incredible views of Mt. Fuji by spending a day in the Hakone region. Getting there is a trek, but as popular saying goes: “It’s not about the destination. It’s about the journey getting there.” Take the JR Yamanote from Shinjuku to Shinagawa, then transfer to the Shinkansen Hikari for Odawara. From Odawara, take the Hakone Tozan Railway line for the Hakone-Yumoto Station. The total travel time there is roughly 2 hours.

Riding a shinkansen (Japanese high-speed bullet train) for the first time was quite the experience. In fact, the first time a shinkansen passed by us, I was so startled by how fast it went that I yelped (literally). Make sure to reserve a seat on your shinkansen before you go (it’s free to reserve if you have the JR Pass). There’s always a section of non-reserved cars but we wanted the ease and comfort of having reserved seats (ideally, reserve a day in advance if you’re traveling as part of a group).

After arriving at the Hakone-Yumoto station (get the Hakone Free Pass!), we followed the popular tourist route by making one giant circle around the various attractions in the area:

• Train to Gora – While in Gora, explore the shops near the station, then walk uphill to enjoy a nice lunch at ITOH Dining by Nobu.
• Tozan Cablecar – The Tozan cablecar travels at a 45-degree angle up the slope of a mountain between Gora and Souzan.
• Hakone Ropeway to Togendai – The ropeway is deemed the world’s busiest gondola ride by the Guinness Book of World Records. Make a pit stop in Owakudani, a crater that was created when Mt. Hakone erupted 3,000 years ago. Feast on some black boiled eggs (black from being boiled in a hot sulphur spring) – rumor has it, eating one will extend your life by 7 years!
• Lake Ashi Sightseeing Cruise to Hakone Michi – The sightseeing cruise is a relaxing way to see Lake Ashi. On a sunny day, you’ll be able to catch some great views of Mt. Fuji and the surrounding mountains.

TIP: After the sightseeing cruise at Lake Ashi, make sure to take the purple line “R” bus back to Hakone-Yumoto station from Hakone-Michi. Many tourists make the mistake of taking the red line “H” bus but it will take 1.5 hours more!

To continue to read about our 7-day trip to Japan, check out my next post “Highlights of Japan Part 2:  Kyoto” here.