My husband and I recently visited Paris for a birthday weekend celebration, and completely fell in love with the city. There’s so much to see and explore – whether you are into food, history, art, architecture, fashion, or people-watching, Paris will have something for you! There’s simply too much to do and see to cover in one post, so this Paris Photo Diary is meant to show you a few of my favorite moments (some touristy, some non-touristy…I think it’s a good mix) from this recent trip.
Walking the picturesque streets of Montmartre
Montmartre was once considered a village, set-up on a hill and isolated from the Paris city limits. And indeed, one can feel a sort of village-like atmosphere as you stroll through the area with its cobblestone lanes, crooked alleyways, and romantic cafes that look like they belong in a Disney movie.
It’s a bit hard to imagine now, but Montmartre used to be a place where struggling artists, playwrights, poets, and dreamers could gather and afford to live. The likes of Picasso, Modigliani, Renoir, and Van Gogh roamed among these narrow streets, channeling avante garde thinking and a bohemian lifestyle. Due to mass tourism and commercialism, Montmartre has now become a place (particularly in the famous Place du Tertre) where portrait sketchers and caricaturists go to make money off tourists. Despite all of this, it’s still one of my favorite areas in Paris and a beautiful place to visit, particularly if you veer off to the back streets (for example Rue Saint Vincent), where some of the creative and bohemian spirit survives.
TIP: At the foot of Montmartre is Paris’s red light district (e.g. Pigalle, or “Pig Alley” as some would say). Despite a boom of gentrification and sanitation, this area (and other neighboring areas of Montmartre) can be quite dodgy and rough at night. I wouldn’t recommend wandering around the area late at night.
TIP: At the intersection of Rue Lepic and Rue Cauchois, is the famous Cafe des Deux Moulins (made famous by the movie Amelie). We enjoyed a coffee in the shop and felt like we were in the movie!
Visiting a Secret Bar
Sipping creative cocktails in a Paris ‘secret bar’, Baranaan Indian Cocktail. This Indian-themed cocktail bar was recommended to me by a fellow blogger. It’s hidden behind a fluorescent-lit Indian cafe, down a narrow hallway, behind a door with a fierce tiger painted on it. As you walk through the door, the back lounge is quite a sight-to-behold. It’s designed to imitate a vintage train carriage with screens on the wall that make it look like you’re driving through the countryside of India. Menus are designed to look like Indian passports, and they feature Bollywood-themed drinks and a variety of Indian naan. Sipping chai-infused cocktails served in fresh coconuts, and watching the ‘countryside’ pass-us-by, made for a fun end to the night.
Source: Paris Bouge
Hot Chocolate at Angelina’s
Enjoying the best hot chocolate (dare I say, in the world) at Angelina’s. I’m not even a big fan of hot chocolate, but I’m hooked on Angelina’s. The chocolate is sweet and decadent but not overwhelming. I already know that Angelina’s will be a ‘must’ anytime I visit Paris in the future. If you can’t make it to Angelina’s, I hear Cafe Flore makes a mean hot chocolate as well.
Shakespeare & Co.
Browsing for books at the legendary Shakespeare & Company bookstore. Walking through this bookstore feels a bit like you’re walking back in time. I love the faded green exterior and the weather-beaten signs. I love the floor-to-ceiling walls of books, and the creaky stairs leading up to the beds and corners where hundreds of authors (the famous and the unknown) have made their refuge. Despite the crowds of tourists that gather at the entrance these days (this bookshop is after all, just a stones throw away from Notre Dame), one can feel the magic, romanticism, and nostalgia in the air, and can understand why this place was a haven for the writers of the Lost Generation (Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Joyce).
Source: Wikipedia (Author Shadowgate from Novara, ITALY)
Exploring Hidden Arcades
Dinner at Le Pas Sage in the Passage du Grand Cerf. Paris is famous for it’s hidden passages, e.g. beautiful shopping arcades that were dug through existing buildings and built with glass roofs to allow customers to shop rain or shine. Apparently, in the 1850s, there were over a hundred shopping arcades scattered throughout the city. Today, only a handful exist (somewhere around 20-25) that are open to the public.
We didn’t purposefully seek out a passage, but actually discovered it when we sought shelter from a sudden downpour of rain! We were cold, drenched, and desperately seeking comfort, which we found in Le Pas Sage, a cozy French bistro tucked inside the Passage Grand du Cerf. This cleverly-named cafe (the name literally translates to, not well-behaved; and it’s located in a ‘passage’) offers amazing cheese plates, a large wine selection, and a rotating menu that offers a variety of soups, creative small plates, and casseroles. We were the only tourists in the entire place, and had to translate several menu items on our phones because they didn’t have an English menu (that’s when you know it’s good!) As we enjoyed a bottle of rose, and savored a beautifully-arranged cheese board, we commented several times on how happy we were that it rained…because had it not, we would have never discovered this lovely little place.
TIP: Le Pas Sage is located right along Rue St. Denis, the oldest street in Paris. Further down the street (north side) is known to be a mini ‘red-light district’ with a few sex shops and strip joints. It’s a perfectly fine area to be in (we didn’t feel uncomfortable at all as we walked through), but worth noting.
The Seine
Savoring scenic views while walking along the Seine River. Cue your classic Paris movie scene. Take a walk along the Seine River and make your way across the Pont Neuf bridge (the oldest bridge in Paris), towards Ile de la Cite. Here you can visit famous sites like Notre Dame and Saint Chappelle. The walk also features some amazing views of the Eiffel Tower.
Paris Without the Crowds
Seeing the Eiffel Tower, the Sacre Coeur, the Louvre Museum, and the Palais Royal without crowds of people. My husband and I woke up at the crack of dawn to experience iconic Paris sites without feeling overwhelmed by tourists, and it was totally worth it.
Having the Eiffel Tower to ourselves was a particularly unforgettable moment.
Sacre Coeur
Climb up the dome of the Sacre Coeur to get some of the best views of Paris.
Palais Royal
Play like a kid again at the maze of black and white pillars at the Palais Royal.
Le Marais
Exploring the buzzing, fashionable neighborhood of the Marais. I love the Marais area – it has some of the most amazing architecture, food, and atmosphere that Paris offers. It’s one of the hidden gems of Paris (though it is growing in popularity with tourists).
The Marais used to host the largest Jewish community in Europe, but a majority of that population sadly died from concentration camps during World War II. Despite this, the Marais still retains several amazing Jewish delis, bakeries, and restaurants (particularly on Rue des Rosiers). On this street, you’ll also find some of the best falafel in the world – there’s a 20-year long intense rivalry between neighboring shops L’As du Fallafel and Mi-Va-Mi, who both claim to serve the best chickpea balls. I’ve only tried L’as du Fallafel so I can’t say which one is the best yet…
TIP: If you’re not sure which area of Paris to stay, I’d highly recommend booking a hotel or AirBnb in the Marais. It has a central location which makes it very convenient to get around. Additionally, while most of Paris closes up shop on Sundays, the Marais remains alive with bars, restaurants, and trendy shops.
Parisian Cafes
Admiring charming Parisian cafes and bistros at every corner. There’s no shortage of cute cafes in Paris, I felt like I was stopping every 5 minutes to snap a picture! There’s something so lovely about enjoying a glass of wine from a sidewalk patio, watching the world go by.
TIP: For a great traditional French bistro dinner, check out Bistrot Paul Bert. The steak frites were outstanding. Even the most sophisticated of palates such as Anthony Bourdain and David Lebovitz would agree… Bistrot Paul Bert is one of the most consistently tasty and reliable traditional bistros in Paris. Read my full review of Bistrot Paul Berthere.
Buttery Croissants
Eating a buttery, flaky croissant every morning. Croissants taste better in Paris, I don’t know why but they just do. We started every morning with a croissant in hand. I highly recommend one from Carette (they are also famous for their desserts), but supposedly Pain Pain and Ble Sucre have some of the best croissants in Paris. With all the walking we did around the city, I didn’t even feel bad about the calories.
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