This blog post ‘A Guide to Bordeaux and the Marathon du Medoc” is one that is very near and dear to my heart. Not only did I fall in love with Bordeaux as a city (the buildings! the charm! the wine!), but our trip there represented a big milestone for my husband, who ran and successfully completed his first full marathon.
But this wasn’t just any old marathon…this was the Marathon du Medoc, a French marathon that happens every September. Set in the rolling hills and vineyards of Bordeaux wine estates, the marathon is known to be the ‘longest marathon in the world’. It features 26 food and drink stops where runners can dine on steak, foie gras, freshly shucked oysters, bread, and wine! I know the concept of drinking while running sounds a little ridiculous, but I personally think it’s an absolutely genius idea (if I’m going to run 26 miles, I DEFINITELY want to drown out my pain with wine). Best. marathon. ever.
Even though I didn’t run the marathon myself (and hey, before you judge….my sister and I spent the morning biking our way around chateaux and vineyards so SOME exercise was still involved), I did get to participate in the ‘day-after 10k walk’ through the vineyards of Margaux. The whole experience was absolutely wonderful – one that I’ll never forget. Read on to hear more about our visit to Bordeaux and our time at the Marathon du Medoc!
TIP: Because we were late to register for the Marathon du Medoc, there were only full lodging packages available. These packages were convenient but expensive. They covered the registration fee and two nights in an old Ibis Budget hotel in Bordeaux. If you can, I would register early and book a hotel separately to save money!
Day 1: City of Bordeaux
We spent our first morning in Bordeaux getting familiarized with the city. Breakfast was at a darling coffee spot called L’Alchemiste. This hipster cafe serves gourmet coffee and is located in the heart of the city. It’s also conveniently located across the street from Le Puits Damour de Captieux, a shop specializing in choux pastries filled with a caramelized cream. Talk about the ultimate pastry breakfast!
We spent the rest of the morning exploring the city. Our first stop was the Pey Berland Tower. This Gothic-style tower features 233 steps up to the top, and gets you some of the best views in Bordeaux. The next stop was Porte Cailhau, one of the remaining monumental gates in the city’s medieval fortified walls. We also visited the Girondins Monument, a large and elaborate fountain sculpture honoring victims of the French Revolution.
From there, we took a walk along the river. The left bank of the Garonne River is known to be one of the most magnificent waterfronts in France. This riverside promenade features a long and elegant line of grand neo-classical 18th century buildings.
As we walked along the promenade, we made sure to check out Le Miroir d’eau, the world’s largest reflecting pool public art installation. Covering 37,000 square feet, Le Miroir d’eau is a long series of granite slabs covered by 2 centimeters of water. Located across from the Place de Bourse, it’s a popular spot with locals on a hot summer day (perfect place for snacking on some ice cream, or for little ones to cool off in the pool).
Lunch was a leisurely affair on the sidewalk tables of La Tupina. This Bordeaux institution has been serving famous foodies like Rick Stein and Joel Robuchon for years. The restaurant is known for their grilled meat (get the steak!). The menu is a bit pricey but we saved money by going for lunch and sharing a set menu (a good value at 18 euro per set).
After lunch, it was time for us to make our way to the town of Pauillac to pickup Kevin’s runner bib and packet. Pauillac is an hour-long drive from Bordeaux, and is the actual starting point of the Marathon du Medoc.
While Kevin waited in line for his bib, Jamie and I wandered the stalls and picked up samples from marathon sponsors.
TIP: Runners have the option of using pre-arranged shuttle transportation that drives participants between Bordeaux and Pauillac. We decided to rent a car for more flexibility and convenience. I highly recommend doing this, especially if you have limited time in Bordeaux.
Since Bordeaux is famous for producing some of the best wine in the world, one of our ‘must-dos’ for the trip was to do a tour and tasting at one of the wine estates in the region. There are over 57 appellations roughly grouped under 5 main wine production regions near the city (Medoc, Sauternes and Graves, Saint-Émilion, Blaye and Bourg and Bordeaux and Entre-deux-Mers). We focused on the region of Medoc and booked an appointment in advance at the Chateau Hourtin-Ducasse, a winery located a short 10-15 minute drive from Pauillac.
I honestly can’t rave more about our experience at Chateau Hourtin-Ducasse. It’s a small family-run wine estate and a total hidden gem. While they don’t have the prestige or reputation of neighboring vineyards in Margaux or Saint Julien, the winery shares a border with these famous vineyards. This means equally good product for cheaper prices! Pro-tip for those looking to explore the Bordeaux wine region on a budget!
The tour was 90-minutes long, and we learned about the wine production and blending process, sampling wine directly from the barrels, and comparing the taste combinations and blends of each. The tour was intimate and fun, led by the owner of the winery himself who made us feel so welcome. After the tour, we were treated to a tasting of 3 vintages and a plate of local cheese, chocolate, and charcuterie. And the whole experience was only 10€/person!
TIP: If you’re visiting Bordeaux on the weekend of the Marathon du Medoc and want to visit a winery, book your tasting appointments early! Additionally, know that most wineries are closed on the day of the run because they are out serving and supporting the runners!
Stuffed with wine and cheese, we made our way back to Bordeaux and called it an early night.
TIP: The Marathon du Medoc hosts a ‘night-before’ pasta dinner for runners. It costs extra (54 euros/person) so we decided to opt-out of the activity. Instead, we did the extra ‘day-after’ 10k walk and lunch.
Day 2: Marathon du Medoc
Kevin’s big day, the morning of the Marathon. We left Bordeaux for Pauillac early in the morning (around 7:00am) to avoid traffic. There are several parking spots around Pauillac but they fill up quickly so get there early!
One of my favorite things about the Marathon du Medoc was the fact that there was a costume dress code. Before the Marathon started, there was a parade of ‘most entertaining disguised runners’. This was an absolute hoot. The theme of that year was ‘amusement park’ and it was amazing how extravagant some of the costumes were. Kevin dressed up as a clown, his costume complete with a bow tie, suspenders, and a giant rainbow Afro.
At 9:30am sharp, the Marathon du Medoc kicked-off and Jamie and I stood from the sidelines cheering Kevin on. The atmosphere was absolutely electric. People were hooting, carnival music was blasting in the background, and thousands of adrenaline-filled runners flew past us on their race across the starting line.
While Kevin was off running, Jamie and I decided to rent a bike and explore the area. Even though most of the wineries were closed for the Marathon, we were able to visit a few of the grounds and take pictures. With over 3000 wine estates in the region, we were able to visit several wineries in the span of 1-2 hours. My favorite chateaux was Chateau Pichon Baron – it looked like a fairytale castle!
Lunch was at Le Café Lavinal, and boy was this an event of a lunch. Halfway through our meal, we were interrupted by a blast of trumpets and trombones. Out of nowhere, a local brass band starting parading through the streets, into the restaurant, onto the tables, and it was an absolutely hoot. I guess…these things happen in France sometimes, and I’m okay with that.
At around 2:00pm, we made our way back to the heart of Pauillac and eagerly waited for Kevin to cross the finish line. We waited for 15-20 minutes and there was no sign of him. My heart was pounding and I was SO NERVOUS that he had gotten hurt. I can’t tell you how relieved I was to see him nearing the finish line, looking tired but with a big smile across his face. I literally broke out in tears!
And here he is, with his Marathon du Medoc medal and free bottle of wine!
We drove back to Bordeaux after the race, and had a celebratory feast at L’Entrecote. Now, if you only have one day in Bordeaux and are looking for a good meal, look no further than L’Entrecote. This no-frills restaurant only serves one thing – steak and fries, but they do it well! The lemon butter sauce they drench over the steak is ridiculously addicting. They don’t take reservations so be prepared to wait. We went right at opening time and there was a huge queue around the corner!
Dessert was a nice crispy, carmelized cannelé from La Toque Cuivree. Ask anyone, La Toque Cuivree make the best cannelé in the city! Cannelé are not a very common dessert as they are quite difficult to make, but they are a specialty in Bordeaux. The city is also considered to be the birthplace of this delicious pastry. I wasn’t sure I would like the taste, but they were absolutely scrumptious. I loved the texture combination of the thick crust and soft/chewy inside. Divine!
TIP: Interested in running the Marathon du Medoc now? Registration usually opens up in early March. The Marathon has increased in popularity so I would recommend signing-up on opening day! Bibs tend to sell out in 24 hours!
Day 3: Vineyards and the Dune du Pilat
Our last morning in Bordeaux was one for the books. Every year, the Marathon du Medoc hosts a special ‘day-after-marathon’ 10k walk for marathon participants and family members. The event is meant to give non-participants the chance to get ‘involved’ in the marathon. It also gives marathon participants the opportunity to stretch their legs and muscles after the long run.
TIP: If you want to participate in the Marathon du Medoc 10k walk, you’ll need to pay an extra fee (50 Euro per person). It seems steep but it’s totally worth the cost!
We kicked off the 10k in the morning, starting and ending our loop at the Chateau Marquis de Terme. The walk itself felt a bit like a dream. We happily strolled through rolling vineyards, admiring the majestic grounds and architecture of the many chateaux.
And the best part? We were each given a wine glass necklace. These were used to sample wine, there were multiple stops along the route where the local chateaux offered free wine pours and snacks.
The walk ended with an amazing 3-course lunch on the grounds of the Chateau Marquis de Terme. With a local band playing music in the center of a tent, and endlessly-flowing barrels of wine, the lunch felt like a giant party.
We ate. Drank. Toasted. Most of the time we had no idea what was going on because the whole event was conducted in French. But with full bellies and high spirits, we cheered and laughed hilariously as the dance floor got increasingly crowded and rowdy. We even joined in on the fun for a few songs. The French really know how to throw a good party.
After lunch (and after sobering up a bit), we made the drive to our final stop of the day, the Dune du Pilat. The Dune du Pilat is located in Arcachon Bay, about an hour-long drive from Bordeaux. At 100 meters high and 500 meters wide, it’s the tallest sand dune in Europe.
Apparently, the sand dune continues to grow inward at a rapid rate each year. This is because the winds of the nearby Atlantic Ocean continuously blows sand upward As the sand builds, it swallows more of the nearby forest. In the past, the Dune du Pilat has also been known to destroy nearby homes and buildings.
The Dune du Pilat is unique in that it’s a foredune, which is a sand dune that runs parallel to a shoreline. It was a steep climb to the top, but well worth the effort because the views were incredible. One side of the dune was completely blanketed with pine trees, the other side opened out to the Atlantic Ocean.
We spent a few hours playing in the sand, taking in the scenery, and feeling grateful that we added this stop to our itinerary. If you’re visiting Bordeaux, it’s total worth the drive to visit the Dune du Pilat. I’ve never seen anything like it!
TIP: There’s a large car park near the Dune du Pilat. Even though it costs money to park in the lot, it’s worth the money since it’s conveniently located at the foot of the dunes. Nearby facilities include a gift shop, restaurant, toilets, water pumps for washing sand off your feet.
If you have more time in Bordeaux:
Since we were primarily in Bordeaux for the Marathon du Medoc, we didn’t get the chance to visit every attraction that I wanted to. If you have some extra time to spare in the area, you may also want to check out the following:
- Visit Il Cite du Vine (City of Wine), a museum dedicated to wine that is located in Bordeaux. This would be a great place to spend a rainy afternoon, and a perfect activity for any wine or food enthusiast.
- Take a day trip to the nearby village and UNESCO World Heritage Site, Saint-Emilion. This small village is famous for it’s medieval architecture, charm, and sweeping vineyards.
- Take a tour at Chateau Pape Clament, one of the oldest documented wine producing estates in the region.
Have questions or need help planning a trip to Bordeaux? Leave me a comment below!
Related Post: “Do-it-Yourself’ Wine Tour in Napa Valley
Sharing is caring! Check out these Pinterest-friendly images below.
Great article, really love your photos! This place sounds so amazing. Marathon du Medoc looked like so much fun. We wouldve loved to get in costume and participate as well.
Thank you! It was a total party – I loved the concept of the costumes too. So fun!