Let me just start this post out by saying that Marrakech is a wonderful place to visit. In fact, it’s one of the most memorable places I’ve been…with its bustling medina, its flair for gorgeous interior tile work and patterns, its delicious freshly-squeezed orange juice, and its interesting cultural and historical attractions (my favorite of them being the Saadian Tombs!). My husband and I had a blast during our 3 days there, and already I’m itching to go back.
Visiting Marrakech and camping out in the Sahara Desert was one of those ‘bucket list’ trips for me – one that I had booked a year in advance, meticulously planned out the itinerary details, and counted down the days for. For months leading up to our trip, I eagerly scrolled through my Instagram feed saving pictures for trip inspiration…you know the ones I’m talking about…pictures of dreamy riads and poolside breakfasts, street shops filled with gold and silver lanterns, colorful spices, and magical Berber rugs. To be fair, Marrakech is a very postcard-worthy place, but pictures can be misleading (as I’ve found), and after spending some time there, I feel the need to set the record straight. If you’re planning on visiting Marrakech, you should go with the right expectations…so read on!
1. Souks
What you see on Instagram: People casually browsing and perusing the souks for Moroccan home goods
The reality of it: Unless you’ve bought or plan to buy from a vendor, it’s difficult to take pictures of stalls in the souks. In fact, many stalls have “No Photos” signs at the front of them, and you would do well to respect them. If you do manage to snap a picture of the goods, it’s not unheard of for the vendor to ask for some money in exchange. The souks can get very crowded and chaotic, not to mention the fact that there is lots of construction going on, and motorbikes and donkeys ready to bulldoze their way through the crowds (see reality below).
The truth is, haggling for goods is part of the culture (as our driver told us when he picked us up from the airport…it’s not personal and it’s not just reserved for tourists), and there’s nothing wrong with that. However, unless you are genuinely interested in buying items, it’s recommended that you not linger at a stall for too long or get snap-happy with your camera to give the wrong impression.
It will certainly be tempting to buy some goods while you are there…we couldn’t resist the temptation to buy a Berber rug!
2. Jardin Majorelle
What you see on Instagram: Jardin Majorelle is an oasis of peace and quiet.
The reality of it: Jardin Majorelle is an enchanting garden of exotic plants and soothing pools. It’s one of Marrakech’s most popular tourist attractions, and the crowds are there to prove it. In fact, most people end up waiting up to an hour in the queue for entry tickets. And once you’re in the garden, there are times where it feels less like a ‘relaxing oasis’ and more like an ‘arena’ where you’re challenged to get past a sea of selfie sticks.
As long as you go in with the right expectations, you’ll enjoy your time at Jardin Majorelle (I certainly did). And if you really want to avoid the crowds, I would recommend going right at opening or before closing. The garden is really worth a visit….it’s designed beautifully and the way the electric blue villa stands out against the lush surrounding greenery is lovely.
TIP: Reduce your time waiting in queues. Walk past the entry queue of Jardin Majorelle to visit the neighboring Yves Saint Laurent museum. There, you can get a joint ticket for both, and cut your waiting time in half (plus, you get to see some pretty clothes!).
3. Riads
What you see on Instagram: Girls hanging out by the riad pool, enjoying a leisurely poolside breakfast
The reality of it: There’s a queue of girls in the corner, waiting to take the exact same picture, in the exact same pose. No seriously. When we went to have lunch at Riad BE Marrakech (one of the riads that has found fame on Instagram due to it’s gorgeous green and turquoise tiling), I was blown away by how much ‘set-up’ there was.
There was a group of girls carrying a change of clothes and full makeup bags, ready for doing re-touches before their ‘photo shoots’. There was even a group of individuals who came armed with full blown professional camera and lighting equipment. I seriously felt like an amateur strolling into the riad asking my husband to take a few pictures of me on my iPhone. Ha!
Full disclosure: Riad BE Marrakech is as gorgeous in person as it is in photos, and certainly deserves the fame it’s achieved (one could say the same about the other Insta-famous riad, Le Riad Yasmine). I just wasn’t prepared for what I saw.
Full disclosure #2: Not all riads are like what I described above. In fact, the two riads (Riad Anabel and Riad Andallaspa) I stayed at while I was in Marrakech felt peaceful, authentic, and intimate….they were both located in the heart of the medina but tucked away from the chaos, and I couldn’t recommend either of them more!
4. Camels and Sand Dunes
What you see on Instagram: Girls in flowy dresses, riding off into the sand dunes on the back of a camel
The reality of it: After having ridden a camel into the desert, I can honestly say…kudos to the women who are able to ride camels in summer dresses! Camel riding is not glamorous business. It feels super awkward, the saddles can rub against the legs, and the ride can be quite bumpy (expect a sore bum and legs for days afterwards).
I’m also impressed now when I see pictures of girls running up-and-down sand dunes in dresses. First of all, climbing sand dunes is hard work. I was basically ankle deep (sometimes higher) in sand the whole time I was in the Sahara desert and climbing to the top of the sand dune was a major leg workout. Second of all, I had sand in my hair, my eyes, my ears and I did NOT feel pretty at all. Lastly, I was told right before entering the Sahara to pack a small bag and take only what I needed (not even a change of clothes), because there is only so much a camel can carry. There certainly wasn’t any room in my bag for an extra skirt. None of this matters of course because our trip out to the Sahara was one for the books, one that I’ll never forget.
5. Tanneries
What you see on Instagram: Pictures of the tanneries where workers dye leather goods
The reality of it: The tanneries may be worth visiting and may appear like they do in pictures…but I wouldn’t know. The truth is that it can be very difficult to find them…and when you do, you might get mint shoved into your face and then harassed to take a tour. It took us almost an hour to find our way to the tanneries, and it felt like at every corner, we were being approached by young men claiming ‘the way is closed’ or harassing us (yelling things like ‘hey you american’, ‘follow me’, ‘let me help you I live nearby’, ‘where you going’).
When we finally made it to the tanneries, we were blocked at the entrance by a man who literally shoved a handful of mint into my face and told me it was a ‘gas mask’ for protection. Not only would he not take back the mint when I refused, when I tried to get past him to see the tanneries, he cornered me and said he was the owner of the tanneries, a guided tour was required, and I had to pay him. I of course, had done my research, and knew this to not be the case (note: there were other groups of travelers who passed us freely…we just happened to be the lucky chosen ones). The man kept aggressively side stepping me when I tried to pass, and after the fifth time it happened, it pissed me off so much that I turned around, and left.
Important note: Not everyone will experience what I did. And I certainly don’t want to make any sweeping generalizations about people in Marrakech being ‘misleading’ or ‘aggressive’. Some of the nicest people I’ve met were in Marrakech. And not everyone who approaches you in the street has bad intentions. I am simply recalling the experience I had when I visited the tanneries. You can read similar experiences on TripAdvisor here.
6. Dress Attire
What you see on Instagram: Girls exploring Marrakech in skimpy summer attire
The reality of it: I get it, it can get hot in Marrakech (especially during the summertime) and the last thing you want is to be sweating bullets in jeans. But please please please don’t frolic around in the medina wearing Daisy Dukes and a crop top. While there can be quite the argument on what is considered “appropriate” clothing in Marrakech, I think it’s important to remember that Morocco is a Muslim country so when in doubt, dress more conservatively so that you are respectful to the culture and local customs, and also not drawing unwanted attention.
7. Jemaa el’Fnaa Square
What you see on Instagram: People taking pictures with snake charmers and pet monkeys
The reality of it: Although it may be tempting to stare and engage with the snake charmers and monkeys that perform in Jemaa el’Fnaa Square, please don’t! The animals are often mistreated and abused, and taking pictures of them (or with them) only fuels the practice.
8. La Mamounia
What you see on Instagram: “Those” iconic shots by the La Mamounia pool and the white marbled pillar hall
The reality of it: There’s no doubt about it, La Mamounia is an absolutely gorgeous property. But not just anybody can walk in to take a picture. Technically, you have to be a guest of La Mamounia to enter the hotel grounds (there’s a security guard stationed at the entrance). And the average nightly rate for a room at La Mamounia is over $500/night! We were able to get in because we were having afternoon tea (Moroccan-style….highly recommended!) in one of the restaurants, but we did see people getting turned away.
There’s so much more to the city that I haven’t covered that I hope to write a follow-up post on all the activities and places I would recommend visiting while in Marrakech. Despite the theme of this blog post (and that unfortunate incident at the tanneries), I really did love my time in Marrakech and would go back in a heartbeat. It’s unlike any city I’ve ever visited. My intent with this post is not to ‘scare’ people away from visiting, but to simply provide an honest recap of the experiences I had and describe how they differed from expectation. However, the only way to really learn about a city, is to go see it for yourself. So go!
Need help planning a trip to Marrakech or have questions on this post? Leave me a comment below!
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Hi!
I just wanted to thank you for this post. I feel like i really understand your post. I tend to love everyplace I travel to, because I love to travel, and i was recently thinking about some of the tough parts of travel, aggressive hawkers for example. I was hoping that more people would be bold enough to share some of the hard parts, even if all around they still loved the place. You did this marvelously. Thank you.
Aw thanks Diana, this is really sweet and thanks for the response. I don’t want to deter people from visiting but definitely wanted to share my honest experience!!! xoxo
Hi Jessie!
I was so glad to run across your article on Marrakesh- very insightful and helpful.
Like you, Morocco has been on the top of my bucket list for years and my husband and i are planning a trip in October for 8 nights. The only part weve reserved so far are our last 3 night in Marrakesh before flying back home.
we plan to visit the coast (Taghazout area) where we our meeting our son who surfs. Do you recommend visiting Tangiers, Fes or any other areas? Not sure we have time for the desert….heard its quite a distance.
would love to hear your feedback!
Thank you so much!
Not gonna lie, I did want to go to Marrakech after the sudden influx of beautiful insta photos. The architecture there just looks incredible. Sorry about that experience at the tanneries, but definitely thanks for sharing, I guess sometimes you never stop to think about the stories behind the pictures
Thanks girl! Marrakech is no doubt a very instagrammable place, and hopefully this doesn’t deter you from going! I still loved it! But it’s totally true that pictures you see on social media are not necessarily representative of reality! xoxo
This was a great read! I’ll definitely adjust my expectations for when I visit.
It’s still such a great city (and not the only one where people just go for Insta-worthy shots)…do let me know what you think when you go!